Builds

[seriesposts title="Tamiya TB-03 Build Series" orderby=date order=ASC name="Tamiya TB-03 Build" ]

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[seriesposts title="Tamiya TB-03 Build Series" orderby=date order=ASC name="Tamiya TB-03 Build" ]

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WARNING: For cutting the antenna hole, the dimple in the body is for the TA-05.  The TB-03 hole is back and center, slightly on the passenger side.  There’s a little green piece of paper that tells you this.  It is separate from the body instructions.  Unfortunately, I found this paper after I cut my first hole…

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[seriesposts title="Tamiya TB-03 Build Series" orderby=date order=ASC name="Tamiya TB-03 Build" ]

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Servo Installed.  There’s 1.85″ from the servo to the stock motor and 2.05″ between the sides of the tray for an ESC.  However, the antenna mount is intended to be installed on the shaft side so its more like 1.85″ x 1.75″.  If your ESC is 1.6″ wide or less, it can hang through to the motor area.  There’s 4.17″ from the motor mount to the back of the servo.  I’m pretty confident I can put a Mamba Max setup in there if need be…

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[seriesposts title="Tamiya TB-03 Build Series" orderby=date order=ASC name="Tamiya TB-03 Build" ]

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I’m taping the tires with electrical tape for gluing them.  It might be unnecessary with these low profile on-road tires but it doesn’t hurt.

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Ready to roll!

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Tamiya TB-03 Chassis

D, Step 24

For a servo, I’m going with a 625MG from Hitec.  Some people complain about Hitec, but I’ve had nothing but good luck with the the 645MG for off road.  Its been very tough and has pretty good performance for the money.  The 625 appears to take the 645 and trade torque for speed which I believe will be fine for onroad

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Tamiya provides some different servo parts.  Although Hitec isn’t listed explicitly, the Q4 horn and the BD3 screw seem to be good matches.

[seriesposts title="Tamiya TB-03 Build Series" orderby=date order=ASC name="Tamiya TB-03 Build" ]

D, Step 21

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Used 1000 grit sand paper to smooth out the flashing on the damper valve.

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4 Shocks started

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Sewing tool used to hold piston rod.  Still used a paper towel to protect the rod from scratches.

D, Step 22

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Shocks complete.

D, Step 23

I’m a little surprised to see some slack between the spring and the damper.  Will have to use bigger preloads to even have an affect.  I’m currently using 3mm of preload in the back and that takes up all the slack just right (1 small + 1 medium spacer).

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Chassis complete!

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the rear springs still have slack…

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…but the front springs are slightly compressed.

D, Step 27

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